DIY: Cutting Bolts for 38725 Ingalls Rear Camber/Toe Kit

I got the Ingall’s rear camber kit thinking the install would be straight forward and easy to do, and it was.. Until I found out one bolt on each side of the car was completely seized. Some may encounter this problem and some might not. CL9s are getting quite old now so I wouldn’t be surprised if the majority of us run into this problem. I searched on forums and a lot of people ran into seized bolts while installing this kit. Most of them brought their cars into shops to have the bolts removed. Nobody has thoroughly explained how they got the bolt out though. The bolt is not seized into the nut, the bushing of the arm is completely seized around the bolt itself. You may be able to break the bolt loose from the nut, but you’ll notice that the bolt will turn back itself to the original position as the bushing of the arm is seized around the bolt. The only way to get that bolt out is cutting it out. Here is how I did it and you can to.

I used the install tips provided by Heeltoe Auto here: https://www.heeltoeauto.com/tech-articles/ingalls-38725-38720-rear-camber-kit-install-tips.html

ingalls38725diagramI also used this diagram I found on TSXClub.com to put the arms together, easy enough.

IMG_5413My set up.

IMG_5414The toe arm was really easy for me, no seized bolts here!

IMG_5416

Top view of the seized bolt

IMG_5418

Bottom view of the seized bolt

The struggle was with the camber arm here with the bolt closest to the middle of the car. Make sure to break the bolt loose now if you can, I assume it would make it easier to remove the end of the bolt after making all your cuts. But if not, you should still be okay. Note that the nut is welded to the subframe.

IMG_5435.jpgMy weapon of choice was this Makita reciprocating saw with 6″ Lenox blades, which are far superior to the other longer blades I was using. I went through about 4 blades. The area is quite tight so there isn’t much room to work with.

 

IMG_5424You will have to make two cuts on each bolt, one on the left side of the arm and one on the right side of the arm. I found it easiest to start your cuts from the bottom and work all the way to the top since there isn’t much room.

Important:

On the side closest to the head of the bolt (right side in the picture above), try cutting furthest away from the arm. It will be a lot easier to remove the head of the bolt that way.

On the side closest to the nut (left side in the picture above), make sure you cut closest to the arm as possible. You will see in the next picture why. 

IMG_5426Once you’ve made your cuts and removed the arm, the head of the bolt (right side) will come out easily if you cut as much of the bushing off as possible. On the side of the nut (the nut is welded to the subframe), hopefully you cut closest to the arm as possible so you end up with a little stub of the bolt. Use some pliers to spin the rest of the bolt out.

IMG_5433Bolt completely removed.

IMG_5430This is the aftermath.

Once the arm is removed, simply install the rest of the Ingall’s kit. I reused all my bolts and nuts except the one I cut. The part number for the one I cut is: 90173-S84-A00. Make sure you look up which bolt you need. All bolts on each arm are different.

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